Nostalgia at Bench Fashion Week
Bench Fashion Week Holiday 2025 debuts as the country stands at a crossroads of great change. It’s no surprise that the collections at the two-day affair (shortened instead of the usual three to give way to the Sept. 21 EDSA protests) are all influenced by nostalgia. When the path forward is unclear, it’s human nature to look back at the journey so far to see where to go: Do we keep going with the status quo or take courage to make a change?
Jaggy Glarino’s cast of characters at “Igno” are those most afflicted by this choice. It’s the kargadors, the basureros, the homeless in the backstreets of Manila. And then there are probinsyanos like Glarino himself, relocating to Manila for opportunities they otherwise won’t have in a decentralized country. Far from glamorizing the struggle, how he honors the struggles of the unmoored as they survive is evident in the technical execution. Antennas and plangganas are styled with hand-carved appliqués made to look like yero. Shiny, liquid trash bags are draped on the bias like silk. Divisoria bags are knitted into dresses and bags with yarn, calling to mind the makeshift dresses street vendors rush to wear as protection against a sudden downpour. Lambat, commonplace in seaside communities of Manila, inspires hand crochet in gold thread, adorned with T’boli metalwork.
Fashion, as second skin, must make the wearer’s life better. Ternocon 3 Koko Gonzales was in the process of relaunching his bespoke bridal wear brand LSW as a namesake label when the idea struck. Biking to work, riding his motorcycle throughout the city, playing badminton for fun, and the rest of the time, sourcing materials for work—why not create a collection that confronts the weather? The terno, perfected over centuries for the Filipino lifestyle and climate, is the inspiration for “Collection 01” with its piña kimona and barong made for feeling the breeze on your skin.
Encouraging playful rebellion and gender neutral expression is at the heart of Abraham Guardian and Mamuro Oki’s HA.MÜ. Known for their maximal, playful silhouettes, they are making this ethos more inclusive in collaboration with Human. HA.MÜ icons are reworked on ready-to-wear Human pieces in “First Day of My Life,” a collection of statement pieces designed to complement pieces you already do own. “They’re wearable expressions made to connect with people,” says Oki. Whatever your identity may be, the collection is all about not being led by fear and not letting your inner child fade away.
Daryl Maat reminisced about his childhood, too. He never had that big birthday party as a child, so he’s turning that unfulfilled wish on its head with “Kaarawaaannnn,” complete with banderitas and toppers in inabel, a playful integration of our local textiles. Known for his Pad Paper Barong, for BFW they are oversized like kindergarten uniforms.
Designer and stylist Neric Beltran reveals “The Other Side” of his creativity for his Bench Fashion Week debut. Known for his custom-made, hand-embellished garments, the Milan-trained designer says, “Nothing beats something created by hand.” He integrates it with tried and tested silhouettes to create “affordable luxury” that is accessible as ready-to-wear.
Cebu City-based Bree Esplanada expounds his artwork universe, Hollow Illustration, with oversized appliqué and more delicate lattice work of the human skeleton on sheer, skintight mesh, with the backbone raised all the way down to transform the silhouette into those of his grotesque creatures. It’s a story first seen in fashion on his Ternocon 3 collection along with more art prints on fabric in collaboration with Anthill Fabric Gallery.
Bench workwear’s daily uniforms are oversized this season with today’s rising stars like Fyang Smith and JM Ibarra, making One Ayala shake with their fans’ squeals in oversized jackets. Other Pinoy Big Brother stars came down in varsity jackets, cargo pants, and weather-ready laptop bags stuffed with angel’s breath.
Cotton On embraced 2010s high school drama with low-rise bottoms, complete with bikinis and boxers showing. Korean lifestyle brand MLB turns the heritage of Major League Baseball into contemporary street wear with pops of color in Korean fashion culture.
Audrey Hepburn’s Sabrina and the Parisienne come to mind for Kashieca Luxe. Trendy Korean brand 8Seconds unveiled a stylish day-to-night uniform for the city lifestyle while Urban Revivo and global ambassador Elaine Zhong’s “The Dream Voyager” brought back bohemian chic with flowy silhouettes inspired by textiles from around the world.
The Playground of Bench Tower has hosted seasons of memorable BFWs, and moving the event to Space at One Ayala opens the celebration of Filipino fashion and pop culture to more expressions of this. For this season, the weekend wrapped up with a set by swimmer, actor, and now DJ, Park Sunghoon, mixing K-pop hits with 2010s EDM for his fan meet after the show. While other fashion weeks gatekeep, Bench has always been true to its commitment as a platform of Filipino fashion, this time bringing its global ambassadors and events closer to more fans of the brand.
Loving local is a lifestyle. When you love your country, you walk the talk—and wear it, too.
