Effortless isn’t an aesthetic, it’s a method
Maximalist looks have their place—but for versatility and timelessness, French beauty endures. Its appeal is in its practicality: skin-first, edited, and built to function in real life.
Sisley and Alexandre Colaianni—who’s been doing makeup since the mid-’90s for stars like Natalie Portman and Monica Bellucci and has served as the brand’s international makeup artist since 2006—keep that philosophy alive. In French beauty, makeup looks finished but never “done,” a reminder that ease still has a place in a world obsessed with constant optimization.
Colaianni’s approach is technical, unfussy, and very French. “My goal isn’t to transform you,” he says. “It’s to make your everyday routine easier.”
At an exclusive masterclass at Rustan’s Shangri-La Plaza Mall, here’s exactly how he builds the kind of base that reads polished but never heavy—and why he almost always finishes with a matte lip.
Step 1: Always start with soothing skincare
More than just covering up, Colaianni believes in reducing imperfections as the first step. “Balance the pH, hydrate, calm the skin. Then your makeup won’t fight you,” he says, something the botanicals in Sisley products do so well on top of a relaxing massage. With this step, you are reducing redness and puffiness before any coverage goes on.
Step 2: Prime only where you need it
While it’s tempting to prime all over knowing we’ll get oily and sweaty through the day, French beauty is about being strategic. “Focus on the T-zone—this is where oil and pH are the issue.” A matte, breathable formula helps any product over it stay put without turning the skin flat or powdery.
Step 3: Build up to the coverage you want
“Tinted moisturizer is already a big change for most people,” he says. He slowly transitions clients away from heavy bases over months, letting their natural texture show through while still softening discoloration.
When you do use foundation, Colaianni starts application at the chin and blends upward, focusing on evening out imperfections at the periphery of the face.
Worried about your shade match? Color matching happens “just above the jawline, not on the hand,” as we are supposed to match our face to our neck and shoulders for a more harmonious look.
Tools make all the difference for this step. Brushes give a smoother veil; fingers tap and warm the product into the skin for a fuller coverage.
Step 4: Conceal strategically, not generously
“And tap, don’t drag. The tapping boosts circulation—it wakes up the whole area.” For shadowy areas, he adds reflecting products as opposed to adding more coverage for a more natural look.
Step 5: Use blush as a lighting tool
Blush goes higher than expected—on the cheeks, around the periphery, sometimes the base of the nose. He favors silicone-smooth formulas with mineral pigments because they blur and reflect light. Taupe adds structure; burgundy pressed onto lids adds depth.
With this, contour stays in the background, applied by following the anatomy of one’s bone structure (as pictured) as opposed to trying to change it.
Step 6: Build an expressive eye that looks effortless
Brows aren’t only meant to be filled. Colaianni likes to subtly emphasize its shape without overwhelming your features by drawing hairlike strokes at the beginning of the brow and extending the tail.
The same approach also applies to the eye area. Don’t be afraid to color beyond the lines of the eye area and extend. Glossy color can go slightly onto the cheekbone for that glossy radiance. Mattes can elongate the eye when shaded a little past the end of the sockets.
For the lash line, a flat-tip brush can add definition without the harshness of a pencil. Extending the color a hair past the outer corner creates lift —no wing required.
Step 7: Finish with a moisturized lip
Blurred lips are the makeup trend of the season, and with the new Sisley Phyto-Rouge Velvet, this look can be done in just one step without being drying or emphasizing lines.
“Matte should still feel like lips,” he says. The formula creates a thin, flexible film that blurs lines, reflects a soft amount of light, and stays put for hours.
More interestingly, it acts like a barrier. Because lips don’t have a hydrolipidic film, he prefers formulas that “seal in moisture while giving strong color.” After a few weeks of regular use, he says lips look smoother and feel less tight—rare for a matte.
The shades range from quiet nudes to unapologetic reds, and because the texture is creamy instead of stiff, you can build intensity without dragging.
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In the Philippines, Sisley is at Rustan’s The Beauty Source Makati, Shangri-La Plaza Mall, Alabang Town Center, and Cebu.
