Lamumu and other discoveries in Capiz, the land of the ‘manananggal’
Often called the “Land of Aswangs,” Capiz sparks both curiosity and intrigue. The truth is, this province in the Western Visayas doesn’t bewitch with fear—it enchants with beauty, mystery, and legend.
Wandering through the storied streets and lively markets, we were truly enchanted by the Lamumu dolls, which are not just souvenirs you can bring home but are a tribute to Capiz’s rich folklore. The story goes that Jose, an artist with a vision, wanted to create an inexpensive but meaningful art inspired by local legends so he personally funded the creation of the Lamumu dolls. Today, stories come alive with the Lamumu handcrafted doll collection.
A trip down memory lane in my mom’s hometown, Capiz, and its charming capital, Roxas City, brought past joys, present learnings, and a wonderful anticipation for what is yet to come. This visit wasn’t just about sightseeing—it was about experiencing history, culture, and design woven seamlessly into everyday life.
My family and I had the opportunity to visit familiar places and create new memories in unfamiliar surroundings.
There are many homes away from home that exist here, but our favorite boutique residence is Casita Juan, a haven that seamlessly blends heritage and comfort. Nestled by the romantic Baybay Beach, this boutique retreat is where tradition meets indulgence.
Owned and managed by architect Jose Arcenas, the place is a sight to behold. The moment you step inside, you are transported to an era where intricate wooden details, Capiz shell windows, and handcrafted furniture tell stories of the past amid modern-day comforts.
No visit to Capiz, the seafood capital of the Philippines, is complete without indulging in its legendary cuisine. Bitoy’s Balay Barbekyuhan, owned and operated by Dr. Munich Conlu, a nuclear medicine specialist, is the go-to place for an unforgettable seafood feast.
Inarguably the best restaurant in town, Bitoy’s served us an exquisite spread of fresh oysters, kilawin, tanigue sinigang, and crabs drenched in garlic butter. And, of course, no meal here is complete without tasting Marc’s BBQ, a decades-old recipe that remains a crowd favorite, proving that tradition is truly timeless.
To complement the feast, we sipped on refreshing fruit shakes and handcrafted cocktails. After that, we found ourselves at a charming coffee shop, where we enjoyed the best cakes and brews in town while listening to a live acoustic band. The lively scene of people of all ages, gathering for music and ballroom dancing, was a heartwarming reminder of how Capiz embraces both tradition and celebration.
Another highlight is Conlu Cacao, a must-visit in Panitan, Capiz. As Capiz’s first FDA-approved, locally crafted chocolate brand, it offers a true tree-to-bar experience. Dynamic Rose Conlu, founder of Conlu Cacao, said, “With a government-supported post-harvest facility ensuring top-quality production, visitors can witness the chocolate-making process.” Capiz Cacao Producers Cooperative began as an association in 2018, started producing chocolate in 2023, and became a cooperative in 2024.
Palina Greenbelt Ecopark in Roxas City, Capiz, offers a relaxing river cruise on bamboo rafts along the Palina River. Guests can enjoy lush mangrove views, traditional fishing demonstrations, local music, and optional spa treatments. Fresh seafood meals are available.
Another home away from home here is the Istorya Forest Garden Resort, crafted by Jun and Gigi Bermejo and their daughter Cheska. A luxurious sanctuary in Panay, Capiz, the resort boasts lush gardens and posh lodgings ranging from superior rooms to private villas similar to five-star resorts like Shangri-La. They also have exceptional Filipino cuisine and freshly baked goods made by their own bakery.
“Panublion,” a Hiligaynon term meaning guardian of precious things, is the official name of The Roxas City Museum. What was once a circular water tank, built in 1910 by Pastor Alcazar from Batangas who married into the Arcenas family, now houses important historical and cultural artifacts.
We learned that Sen. Jose Cortes Altavas, the governor in 1910, helped build the Provincial Capital, the Jose Rizal Statue and Capiz Bridge. Mayor Teodoro Roxas Arcenas built the market during Ferdinand Marcos’s era, originally named Bagong Lipunan Market.
Look back and rediscover Capiz. As Doc Munich Conlu said, “In the end, the only true treasures we own are the memories, experiences, and recollections that stay with us forever.”
