Miko Calo is serving her most personal food to date
Miko Calo is not holding back any longer. Metronome showed us her serious skills, marked with technical precision and refinement, while at Taqueria Franco, we get glimpses of her whimsy and gaiety, as evidenced by cordon bleu quesadilla and lamb bourguignon birria. But at Coquette, her three-month-long dining pop-up in Newport World Resorts, we finally see a side of her that’s more carefree, at ease and playful. It’s Calo in her most heartfelt role yet.
“Coquette feels more personal. I’m not trying to impress anyone or hit certain benchmarks. I just want to cook food that feels honest. There’s less structure, more intuition. It’s the most relaxed I’ve been in a kitchen in a long time.”
She adds, “It’s the same foundation, different approach. Metronome is precise and polished. Coquette is more intuitive. The flavors are bolder, and the energy is lighter. I’m still using everything I know, but I’m not tied to formality.”
The local restaurant scene definitely missed the food of the country’s beloved muse for French cuisine since she took a much-needed rest and sabbatical from the professional kitchen. But now that she’s back in action, people will finally get to satiate their bistro cravings once more.
Miko takes over a third of the massive space of Casa Buenas, the signature Filipino restaurant of Newport World Resorts, to cater to her loyal patrons. There’s pot de foie gras that diners can liberally spread over toasts along with santol confiture, which helps cut through the richness; chilled steamed oysters lubricated with a tamarind vinaigrette and toasted pecans that lend an earthy crunch; ox tongue with calamansi bigarade and grilled kailan; and mussels palatably accompanied by camembert, corn, and cilantro. These are flavor combinations guests might not have seen or tasted before, but are still confident to try and order as they know that they have been handled by the talented Calo.
“Two of my favorite dishes are the fregola with guanciale and buro velouté, and the sweetbread with mushroom duxelles and conpoy.” She adds, “The buro comes from a dish I grew up eating at my cousin’s ancestral home in Arayat, Pampanga, so it’s tied to a very personal memory. The sweetbread was more instinctive. I put it together because I knew the flavors would work. The mushroom duxelles and conpoy have this umami punch that reminds me of XO sauce. It came naturally together.”
Heartier fare includes duck breast with foie gras sauce and pickled ampalaya; a chunk of lamb saddle fortified with a date puree and maple-glazed baby carrots; roasted pigeon on a pool of kamias caramel and a side of pechay etuvee; and iberico presa with tamarind-bbq sauce and grilled eggplant. These plates are bold in flavors and make for a reasonable excuse to order her butter-enriched potato puree.
At Coquette, customers have the option to choose between a five-course set menu and à la carte. And there are no formal beverage pairings. But for those who don’t mind enjoying their meal with a bit of bubbly pours of Champagne Florence Duchêne are available.
Though casual, Calo’s culinary pedigree and polish from years of work at Restaurant Joël Robuchon are still evident. But at her current pop-up, a lot of her intuition has come to play. “For me, Coquette means freedom. It’s a space where I can trust my instincts and just cook. No expectations, no pressure. Just food that makes sense to me right now.”
For this writer, it’s sharp yet thoughtful and less intimidating cooking. Nonetheless, still impressive.
* * *
Coquette by Miko Calo runs from Sept. 2 to Nov. 29 at Casas Buenas, G/F Grand Wing Newport World Resorts, Portwood Street, Newport City, Pasay.
This restaurant pop-up is open for dinner only from Tuesday to Sunday. For reservations, call Casa Buenas at +632-7908-8988 or 0917-8788312.
