Michelin Selected Lola Helen’s signature pancit is a dish you'd be proud to bring to a potluck
A crowd gathered on the corner of J.P. Rizal Street on a Friday night. They were taking pictures of Lola Helen, a humble restaurant that recently made it in the Michelin Guide.
The first Michelin Guide in the Philippines was unveiled on Oct. 30, honoring the best and brightest of the culinary scene in Metro Manila, nearby areas, and Cebu. In the midst of fine dining restaurants like Gallery by Chele and Helm are unassuming joints. Aside from Morning Sun Eatery, a carinderia in Quezon City, there's Lola Helen, a panciteria in Marikina which earned a Michelin Selected distinction.
This recognition is given to restaurants for serving good food and using "quality ingredients that are well-cooked." The food at these spots is found to be above average by inspectors, but not quite at star or Bib level.
The busy panciteria was packed for the dinner rush—they even laid out chairs outside the restaurant where those with reservations could wait to dine in. The small restaurant features bright green and white interiors, which give it a homey vibe. Everything is straightforward, as when you enter, you’ll be greeted by a big menu board listing the pancit dishes, short orders, vegetables, and soups ranging from P110 to P595. From the entrance, you can see the kitchen where the cooks are hard at work.
Pacita De Guzman, daughter-in-law of Elena Cruz De Guzman, a.k.a. Lola Helen, shared that the restaurant was opened 20 years ago in Marikina by a Chinese man, thus it serves Filipino-Chinese style dishes. Now, Ruben De Guzman and his family operate the pancitera, which has its loyal regulars.
“Marami nang nakatikim sa pancit [namin],” she told PhilSTAR L!fe over a call. “‘Yung lasa daw ‘yung binabalik-balikan, ‘yan ang sabi nila.”
De Guzman said that the family couldn’t believe that it was in the Philippines’ first Michelin Guide. “Wala kaming alam diyan eh. Siyempre nagulat kami. Nakaka-proud talaga na kami’y nakasali,” she shared.
Due to high demand during my Oct. 31 visit, most of the entrées were all out and only pancit items were available, like Lola Helen’s signature Bihon Con Litson (P240). The panciteria’s staff, despite the long queues of regulars and newbies, made sure to accommodate everyone who lined up for their Michelin Selected food. For takeout orders, the wait was shorter at around 20 minutes.
The Bihon Con Litson was in a plastic bag and came with two pieces of calamansi. It was still nice and warm even after a one-hour car ride.
The P240 order fills a big bowl: It could probably serve up to three hungry people. As it was in a takeout bag, the lechon pieces and vegetables got lost in the noodles, so make sure to mix them well.
Lola Helen’s Bihon Con Litson packs a punch of flavor in the first bite. It’s savory and a little citrusy and has an umami to it even without a calamansi squeeze. The dish also doesn't need additional flavorings like soy sauce or liquid seasoning. The lechon is juicy, crunchy, and in bite-sized pieces, giving the pancit more texture to break the monotony of chewy rice noodles. However, it could use a tad more vegetables for more bite.
To answer the much-awaited question: Is Lola Helen worth the hype? The Bihon Con Litson is just one dish, but it's worth waiting in line for. It's the type of pancit you’d be proud to bring to a potluck. And for P240, the serving size is worth its value. With its good, home-style flavors at affordable prices, Lola Helen is one panciteria to come back to, especially since its menu features a smorgasbord of other dishes to try.